At the narrow upper end of the Gulf of Aqaba, the Israeli sea resort of Eilat sits within plain view of the whitewashed buildings of Aqaba across the water. From the gulf coast, the Jordanian King’s Highway ascends past Wadi Rum, where Lawrence bivouacked his Bedouin cavalry, to the narrow, twisting defile that leads through the cliffs to Petra.
Once a powerful Nabatean trading capital along the …