Syros is an important island in the Cyclades, but rather off the tourist map. Just the sort of place we like. The town (named for Hermes) is the capital of the island group, and its airy Miaouli Plaza is a wonderful, palm-lined place to sit in a cafe and have a drink. The medieval Venetian village of Ano Syros crowns a hilltop nearby. Wander the narrow, cobblestone streets to the impressive 13th-c…