Guadeloupe’s de facto capital is located near the narrow isthmus connecting the butterfly-shaped island’s two wings. Grand Terre is the larger wing, fringed with the sort of beaches that bring visitors to the Caribbean. The museum of Saint-John Perse is housed in an intact colonial-era mansion, and is dedicated to the Nobel Laureate Alexis Léger, whose nom de plume was St-John Perse. The house is a chance to see typical Creole domestic interiors of the period and find out more about his life and works. Recently opened to rave reviews is the Musée ACTe, a modern museum dedicated to the history and heritage of slavery in the Caribbean. It is the only museum of its kind in the world, explicating the effects of the institution in a clear-eyed and educational way.