The entry to Trollfjord off the Raftsund sound is hair-raising. Just 100 meters wide, it is approached from an angle that hides the opening until the last moment. Then steep, sheer cliffs rise on either side as your ship slips between the polished walls. Once inside, the walls fall away to reveal a vast bowl of snowcapped peaks up to 1100 meters high. It is simply breathtaking. On your Seabourn sh…